Laos


[Pictures] [Travelogue] [Useful bits] [Conclusions]


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The Mekong river as seen in Vientiane.
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The quiet tidiness of Nam Phou Place is a first sign of the strange, mixed Asian-European architecture in Vientiane.
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More unmistakable signs of french influence.
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No shortage of Wat's, or buddist temples, in Vientiane. This one is Wat Sisaket.
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The quiet and silence of Wat Sisaket is a welcome oasis, just outside the main avenue.
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That Dam, hidden in the side streets of central Vientiane.
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The presidential palace.
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No, not Paris. Still Vientiane, with the Patouxai in the distance.
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The National Culture Hall...
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...with its imposing facade.
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Along the Mekong banks, the usual mix of local and european architecture, and a string of shop houses.
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Family transportation.
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I was struck by this iconic representation of the paradoxes of new and old in Laos.
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The entrance to the Museum of Revolution, where among historical and naturalistic displays the Communist Party portraits a different view of the war in Indochina.
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Inside the museum, the atmosphere is odd. At least, you don't need to elbow your way around.
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The flight from Vientiane just landed in Louang Phabang (to use one of the many spellings available). This route is operated by rather modern and safe aircraft. The same cannot be said of other domestic destinations.
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A view of Luang Prabang from the air, with the That Chomsi dominating the top of the Phousi hill.
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Don't be fooled by the lazy appearance of this street. As soon as the heat of the day recedes, the sidewalk and even the center of the road will start buzzing with stalls and tourists.
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The Royal Palace museum. I gave up visiting inside, when I saw the steep price charged for a few rooms.
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Wherever you are in Luang Prabang, you can't miss the Phousi hill.
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One of the many ways up the Phousi. The shade is very welcome...
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... even the Buddha quietly enjoys a rest, guarded by a pair of Naga's.
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At the stupa on the top of the hill, this sacred bell.
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More views around Phousi.
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From the top of the hill, an impressive view of the banks of the Mekong, with the village of Ban Xiang Men on the other side.
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The Nam Khan joins the Mekong in Luang Prabang. Across it, the Srisavangvong bridge.
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Wat Aphai, close to the foot of the bridge.
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Care for a drink anyone? Lao-lao, made from fermented rice, can be spiced up sometimes.
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The main highway in Laos is the Mekong. On its muddy waters, flows the life of the country.
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A journey by boat along the Mekong is an interesting experience that should not be missed, ...
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... and it allows close-by views of the thick jungle around.
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The Ferrari's of the Mekong are so loud that the occupants need a helmet for the protection of their ears. The engines are indeed from regular cars. Minus the hood.
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Almost hidden under a steep limestone wall...
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...the entrance to the Buddha Statues caves.
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Inside the caves, guess what, thousands of Buddha statues.
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The statues are actually old and often damaged. Since they are sacred and cannot be destroyed, people bring them here as a kind of repository. Two caves exist at Pak Ou along the Mekong.
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Opposite the caves, a great view of the mighty Mekong, with Bang Xang Hai village. Also known as Whisky Village, given its main merchandise available to thirsty boatmen.
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Luang Prabang abounds with Wat's. The most famous, most historic, largest -and number of other superlatives- is Wat Xiang Thong. It houses numerous buildings, of which this is just one.
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A panoramic -but still partial- view of Wat Xiang Thong.
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Another building at Wat Xiang Thong.
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One of the many Buddhas at Wat Xiang Thong...
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...and another one.
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The minute ornaments depict history and legends, as well as detailed descriptions of pleasures and punishments in the afterlife.
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The amount of details in the architecture of the buildings can keep you busy for hours.
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These longboats are carried around during processions and festivals. No idea about the pink Buddha.
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Another temple along the small peninsula where the Nam Khan meets the Mekong.
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Signs in Laos can be confusing sometimes.

Travelogue

[Pictures] [Travelogue] [Useful bits] [Conclusions]

I visited in June 2004. I had a rather adventurous view of Laos, with its history of devastation in the war, isolation from the world, laid-back and traditional. I was proven wrong by large crowds of backpackers, package tourists, and a massive presence of international aid workers. Probably, if one has enough time to travel to more remote parts of the country, there must still be adventure, nature and tradition to be enjoyed. But if you are restricted to the main Vientiane-Luang Prabang route as I was, you will think you are still in Bangkok. Shops which feature food, travel, accomodation and internet all under the same roof are packed along the streets of Luang Prabang just as in Khaosan Road, and the friendliness of the local makes you think they all had crash courses in tourist services somewhere along Sukhumvit. But of course the fault is with us, the western tourists that will never learn a lesson on how not to spoil a country.
Another thing that struck me was the inflation of aid agencies in Vientiane. There is perhaps a good side to this, if they really help the local people and economy. But I could do without the scores of scandinavian bakeries, french wine-shops, and german and japanese limousines. This said, Laos is a wonderful destination and I certainly will return. But with more time on my hands.
Useful Bits

[Pictures] [Travelogue] [Useful bits] [Conclusions]

The unit of currency in Laos is the kip (1 US dollar was about 10500 Kip in June 2004). Here is a site where you can find an updated table of currency conversions. Alternate site. Be aware that the Kip comes in small notes, typically 20 and 50, so when you exchange a 100 dollars you might need a backpack to carry away the change.
Here is a few maps, collected from the excellent PCL map collection:
Here are some useful links (no guarantee that they will stay updated):
Concluding bla-bla

[Pictures] [Travelogue] [Useful bits] [Conclusions]


This page was created using a simple digital camera, some freeware, and lots of patience. Click here for a list of details and acknowledgments.

Created by A. Richichi, last modified: 20-Dec-04. Here is my homepage. If you want to know more details (such as places to stay, to eat, to avoid, and other travel tips) send me an e-mail, but first make sure to remove nospam_ from the address. If you liked this page, wouldn't you send me a postcard from the place where you live? Thanks!

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